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B U Y E R ' S G U I D E
Bellapais - a Jewel in the crown
Bellapais is an ancient village of charm and tradition; its
narrow streets and local shops create the feeling that you
are still in old Cyprus. It is superbly situated on a natural
rock escarpment, halfway up the northern hill slopes, magnificent
views of the Kyrenia coast below, rugged pinnacles of the
Kyrenia range tower behind.
Bellapais is famous for its Abbey, but the village itself
dates back several centuries before the Abbey was built. It
is believed that the Greek Bishop of Kyrenia had a residence
on the site of the Abbey; he sought refuge here from the Arab
raids on the coastal areas during the seventh to tenth centuries.
With the founding of the Abbey at the end of the 12 Century
the village began to develop.
The name of Bellapais" was adopted in the 16th Century,
a corruption of the earlier Abbaye de Ia Paix" (Abbey
of Peace). The Abbey grew in importance during the 13th Century
and also in wealth; this prosperity continued until 1373 when
the Genoese army laid siege to Kyrenia, looted the Abbey and
over ran the village.
The Venetian occupation witnessed a further decline in the
Abbey both materially and spiritually, many of the brethren
are recorded to have taken wives, some of them as many as
three.
Laurence Durrell's book "Bitter Lemons", a story
set in the 1950s has brought attention to the village life
that is still obvious today. The house that Durrell describes
so graphically is still there, beautifully preserved and easy
to find. Bellapais is popular with English people; it is still
possible to buy an old village house cheaply and renovate
it to original style without costing too much.
For the visitor on holiday there are plenty of places in
which to stay. The hotels are small, family run and offer
personal service. A good variety of restaurants give plenty
of choice without venturing very far. For visitors who like
to walk there are a great variety of trails all starting from
the village; for those who want to relax and enjoy the views
there is no better place to be.
Bellapais - temple of peace
Bellapais is acknowledged as an important item in the principal
portfolio of Cyprus's artistic history. It is the largest
pearl on a string of gems adorning the Kyrenia Range. There
is a perfect combination of nature and history. It is love
at first sight. A place you will not forget for a lifetime,
and as soon as you get into it you start thinking that you
should do something about it. Bellapais induces you to take
photographs, start painting or writing. It is a stimulating
place. As for myself, I must have taken hundreds of photographs.
People with a spirit of art have done a lot for Bellapais.
Painters, photographers and authors have produced works of
art dedicated to this lovely place. The magnificent architecture
of Bellapais and the natural beauty of its vicinity have also
attracted musicians. Many international music festivals are
held in the monastery. International audiences have attended
many of the classical music concerts. It must be easy to imagine
the composition of beauty, perfect acoustics and a classical
music concert in such a historical setting. Bellapais invites
lovers of art and nature any time of the year.
Bellapais Monastery and the village are situated on an escarpment
almost half way up the mountain. The landscape is superb.
The castles of Buffavento, St. Hilarion and Kyrenia are all
in visual contact with Bellapais. In the old times these four
places warned each other of possible danger. It is said that
there were only few settlements around the monastery in the
1.th century. The monks used to obtain most of their provisions
from nearby Kazafani (Ozanköy).
Bellapais is one of the most remarkable Gothic monuments in
Cyprus. It has been known under various names such as Abbaye
de La Paix by the Lusignans and Bellapais by the Venetians
both mean the Abbey of Peace. The monks used to wear white
robes, therefore the abbey was popularly known as the White
Abbey or Abbee Blanche. The Archbishop of Magdeburg, alias
St. Norbert, who was a canon of the Augustinian order, separated
himself to form a new order called the Norbertine (1120).
The strength of the Norbertines at present lies in Belgium,
where the great Abbey of Tongerloo is still in their hands.
The Augustinian monks of Bellapais, who were influenced by
the Norbertines, were allowed by Archbishop Thierry to become
members of the new order (1213). The rules of Bellapais Monastery
were of great strictness and the monks followed a life of
deep austerity. In 1246 Sir Roger the Norman invested money
in the order and bequeathed a fragment believed to be a part
of the True Cross. He demanded that his name and his wife
Alix' name to be referred to in masses. Hugh Ill, King of
Cyprus, was the royal figure who really helped to build the
monastery as we see it today. He also granted to the master
of the order the right to wear a golden mitreand gilded sword
and spurs. The King was thought to have been buried within
the church. In 1373 the Genoese sacked the monastery and its
decline came in the Venetian period. Many scandals forced
the subsequent Ottoman rulers to despoil the monastery. But
the church was handed over to local Greek Orthodox citizens.
At the entrance there is a massive gateway. The oldest part
of the monastery is the church from the 13th century. Its
belfry is comparatively new. The icons and other religious
objects are well preserved. The frescoes in the west porch
are fragments from the Venetian period. The most beautiful
part of the monastery is the courtyard and the cypresses.
The visitors rhapsodise ever the Flamboyant Gothic arches.
The western view of the monastery with its the classic architecture
looks like a timeless monument. The Gothic door of the refectory
bears the coats-of-arms of the Kings of Cyprus and Jerusalem.
A perfect pulpit and an oval window are relics from old times.
The Refectory is presently used for concerts. The Roman sarcophagi
in the courtyard were used as water basins by the monks. The
cloisters on all four sides lead into the chapter house where
there is a Roman column from an old temple. Please don't miss
some of the small details under the arches and in the corners.
While climbing up the hill to Bellapais, your slow pace will
allow you to look out over the landscape. There are many nice
houses on the way. Bellapais village which is spread over
a wide area is almost linked with Ozankoy. There are two coffee-shops
in the little village square. They are next to the monastery.
The owner of one of the coffee-shops is Mr. Refet, a very
friendly Turkish Cypriot. Like most of the villagers he emigrated
from a village in the south. They all love and work for a
better Bellapais. The village consists of about eight hundred
houses. Two main problems of the village are litter and proper
car-parks. The local council and Bellapais Protection Association
work hard to find solutions to certain problems. There is
an old tree in the little square, endemic to Cyprus, called
the Tree of Idleness. It has become the symbol of Bellapais
village. While walking the village I met Aunt Salime who was
sweeping the street near her house. She was very keen on .
keeping her front-door clean. The narrow streets took me up
to the house of Lawrence Durrell, the author of Bitter Lemons".
The beautifully preserved house is featured in his book. He
also draw attention to the peaceful village life in Cyprus.
Many of our European friends who read the book ended up in
our island to discover its beauty and charm. Some even bought
land and settled here.
John and Margaret are my friends from England. They invited
me to their house in Bellapais. Six years ago they decided
to settle in this lovely village, so they spent a large part
of their funds on a house here. The White Knights" residence
is in a perfect location with a wide view of land and sea.
It is next to the old "Crusader road" coming up
from Ozankoy. They have a delightful this lovely village,
so they spent a large part of their funds on a house here.
The "'White Knights" residence is in a perfect location
with a wide view of land and sea. It is next to the old "Crusader
road" coming up from Ozankoy. They have a delightful
garden quite harmonious with Bellapais. John and Margaret
of the White Knights" are knights of peace and good will
in our : country. They have an open veranda with an open view
towards Bellapais Abbey. It was the perfect place for having
tea with them. They love Bellapais and North Cyprus very much.
They were very sorry about the disaster caused by the forest
fire in 1995. They told me that most of the trees in their
garden were lost during the havoc. We walked around to see
the burnt trunks; fortunately new branches came out from several
carob and olive trees. John told me that this meant new hope
and future for our island. The young trees they have planted
also showed their continuity over this enchanted land. I expressed
my appreciation of the magnificent view of Bellapais from
the veranda. John and Margaret have their breakfast here every
morning accompanied by this visual festival. They have no
regrets in having spent six years in Bellapais because they
have built good friendships with many people. They found Turkish
Cypriots to be very respectful and friendly. In this relaxed
atmosphere they had no fear on crime which was a serious problem
in England. They are very happy to have a peaceful and quiet
life in North Cyprus. Their only complaint was rubbish tipping
in the countryside, and they world like the road to their
house to be paved with asphalt.
John and Margaret have a 'Love of Life" and they both
want to encourage 'nature awareness". John has a group
of friends and they organize 'trekking" in the Kyrenia
Range. They found a continuous route through mountain tracks
and can trail for 220 km along the range. By coordinating
such activities they are encouraging tourism in Cyprus. I
saw books about nature and birds of Cyprus in their library.
This showed the scientific approach in their activities. Margaret
also has a ladies group who have nature walks regularly. Thus
they can gain a better understanding of North Cyprus. They
both insist that Bellapais should become a nature reserve
and planners must keep construction projects under strict
control. Without spoiling the beauty of the area, Bellapais
should keep its identity.
Towards the evening the sound of silence set in the valley
near Bellapais except for a few songbirds. It was time for
departure. The lights illuminating the Abbey were on. traveled
up the old "Crusader road" towards the new light
of the temple of peace.
The Bellapais Monastery
The monastery, one of the unparalleled samples of Gothic Art,
is situated on the flanks of the Five-finger (Kyrenia) Mountains.
Its name today derives from the French "Abbaye de Ia
paix", which means "The Peace Monastery".
The first settlers of the monastery are the priests of the
Augustinian order who had migrated from Jerusalem. The first
monastery building was constructed between 1198-1205. Most
sections of the building which can be seen today were built
by the French King Hugh III between 1267-1284. The pavilions
around the courtyard and the refectory were constructed during
the reign of King Hugh IV (1 324-1 359).
After Cyprus was conquered by the Ottomans, the monastery
was given to the Greek Orthodox Church. The church next to
the courtyard is the part which is in the best condition.
The Italian frescoes on the front walls were made in the 15th
century.
The two marble tombs in the courtyard were used as washbasins
by the priests for some time. On the door behind the tombs
the insignia of the Jerusalem, Lusignan, and Cyprus Kingdoms
are fixed. The refectory of the monastery is also an example
of unequalled Gothic Art. The rooms to the east of the courtyard
in the middle belonged to the priests.
The column in the middle of the council chamber is thought
to have belonged to the early Byzantine Church. The dormitories
of the priests and the chamber of accounts are on the upper
floor.
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